I was pleased to be seated by the window on my 40 minute AirAsia flight from Lombok to Denpasar. The views, like those on the propeller plane from Labuan Bajo to Lombok were quite surreal.
Through my small window to the outside world, I peered down at volcanic islands rimmed with white sand beaches and azure sea under puffy white clouds. Being such a short flight we didn’t ascend very high and I had beautiful views for the entire journey. A highlight was the incredible view of Mount Rinjani- the active volcano on Lombok.
Getting to Seminyak
I selected Seminyak as my final destination, not because it was somewhere I particularly wanted to go- it is after all renowned as one of the overpriced, bustling tourist hotspots rather than the peaceful idyllic retreats I usually gravitate towards, but it has the benefits of being located relatively close to Denpasar airport (half an hour or so) and on the South West coast of Bali which meant I would be able to enjoy a few final sunsets on the beach.
Pretentious Seminyak – smoothie bowls and flat whites..
Seminyak was pretty much what I had imagined. If you’re after anything remotely resembling authentic Bali, don’t come here. The majority of restaurants are solely for tourists selling heavily overpriced fancy coffees and smoothie bowls at prices higher than I’d pay in Europe. I went to one cafe with the intention of getting breakfast- I stuck with a coffee- well.. a “flat white”. I couldn’t justify paying over £5 (yes really) for “granola with fresh fruit” or an “Açai smoothie bowl” or bloody pancakes- pancakes at over £3! Bear in mind average wages are about £100-200 a month for the average local so a £5 breakfast really is a piss take.
I expect as a tourist to pay a little more, and I feel somewhat better if I buy at a local stand and know the profits are being pumped back into the local economy and supporting locals, but these businesses are mainly foreign owned- the owners must make an absolute fortune as I highly doubt they pay their staff European wages. To be honest I don’t know how they can justify it.
Bali and Lombok are both full of such places – solely for tourists, places locals would never frequent. Honestly, this doesn’t sit right with me for so many reasons. As a backpacker I like to go local where possible while also allowing myself the odd treat of course. Sitting and eating side by side with locals is one of the highlights of travel. I am shocked and a little disgusted that so many pretentious cafes and restaurants exist here, and find it slightly embarrassing and wonder what the locals must think of us Westerners… well not just Westerners, there also many Chinese, Indians and other nationalities too. Sitting and indulging in drinks and food the vast majority of local people would never be able to afford. It creates an us versus them divide and makes it difficult for locals to see us as anything more than cash cows. Hence getting ripped off as they just assume we’re all absolutely loaded.
Beach and sunsets ..
Seminyak’s main attraction is the coastline. The beach is vast – stretching from Kuta to Canggu. I enjoyed taking long walks along the sand listening to the waves (which were very powerful and quite a spectacle). It’s also nice place to sit with a drink at one of the many beachfront cafes.
Being a tourist resort type place, there are a wide range of expensive and luxurious hotels and fancy beachclubs. My budget didn’t stretch that far and I wasn’t bothered anyway. I can drink fancy cocktails in Dubai- I didn’t come to Bali for five star hotels. Plus there were plenty of other options, even better in my opinion as the smaller places were actually on the beach itself rather than the posh complexes which are set further back.
Locals make a living by renting out sunbeds with umbrellas and selling soft drinks and coconuts- well it would be rude not to! However, it wasn’t long before I sat down when a particularly strong wave practically engulfed my sunbed. I headed to higher ground and waited for the tide to recede before I returned, and was glad I did as about ten minutes later I watched the next couple along shriek as their shoes and other belongings were washed away by another series of powerful waves!
My final sunset was a good one and a nice way to end my trip. Intense highlights of reds, oranges and finally hazy pinks and lilacs. When the sun set I headed back to the hostel to pack up my belongings and get an early night as I had to be up before 6am for my flight.
I was up bright and early and checked out by 6.10am. Bonus I received back my deposit for my towel- yay extra money for coffee at the airport. I’d ordered a taxi the night before but the lady behind reception didn’t look too sure of herself when she confirmed it had been booked. I didn’t have a lot of confidence it would arrive on time and by 6.20 was pacing as I waited impatiently. So okay it was 6.28 and he wasn’t due until 6.30 but still didn’t he know I had a flight to catch?! The security guard was watching me with amusement. As I asked him if it would be possible to get another taxi if this one didn’t arrive and that otherwise I would have no choice other than to flag one down on the street, the driver walked in- phew! Him and the security guard both then started chuckling as they glanced my way and exchanged words. They were clearly laughing at my western impatience..
“When is your flight?” The driver asked. Well after that performance I could hardly admit I had four hours to spare! (Hey you have to allow for traffic) “Oh it’s okay we have time I was just worried you wouldn’t come”. If taxis were anything like coffees they would easily be forgotten. He was jolly enough and twenty minutes later we were at the clean and modern Denpasar airport. I even had time for a cappuccino at coffee club before my check in counter opened. I know some people like to cut it fine, that just stresses me out. I’d rather have an hour to spare and read a book or get a coffee instead of panicking if there’s a traffic jam or something en route.
Well, that’s it- my two months in Indonesia is over!! I’ve greatly enjoyed my trip – it’s been exactly what I needed. A bit of much needed R&R after the stresses of work life in the 21st century.
Now I’m ready to head back to Dubai, sort out a few finalities and then move on with the next chapter of my life!
Better go- don’t want to miss my flight!
Xx
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