From old Dubai to new Dubai in 36 hours…
Just thirty years ago, most of the world probably didn’t know a place called Dubai existed. Located in the Middle East, on a piece of land jutting out into the Arabian Gulf, the Emirate of Dubai has undergone a startling transformation from a barren land home to a few Bedouin tribes to a hedonistic adult playground where anything is possible.
The stereotype of Dubai being a city without a soul remains unchallenged by most who visit. Yet, just a short drive from downtown Dubai, in the tranquility of the Arabian desert, locals gather in the evenings to sing traditional songs around fires, embracing the simplicity of their surroundings as their ancestors did years before.
Dubai is the quintessential East meets West city. It’s easiest to become consumed in the frenetic excitement of capitalistic, modern Dubai. But if you’re prepared to delve a little further, you will find there is more to Dubai than steel skyscrapers.
Here’s my guide on how to see both of Dubai’s intriguing worlds, the old and the new, the East and the West, the high and the low in just 36 hours.
Day 1. Get your bearings.
Get a perspective of both old and new Dubai at Dubai Frame. A startling structure, it stands 150m tall in one of Dubai’s green spaces Zabeel Park, a popular retreat for the myriad of nationalities resident in Dubai.
Entering the gilded frame, a construction of glass, steel, aluminium and concrete, you’re transported through time as well as space. The first encounter on the ground floor is of ‘Old Dubai’. Through an immersive experience of scents and sounds, the story of Dubai’s incredible growth is relayed.
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The next stop is up to the Sky Deck for 360 degree views of the City. Look north to see remnants of Old Dubai. Facing south, the unmissable angular steel skyscrapers mark modern Dubai. Walk heart in mouth over the 48 metre high, glass floor, before entering future Dubai through a 4D experience. (Dubai Frame is open every day from 10am to 7pm at a cost of 50aed, and if you’re over sixty five you get in for free.)
After enjoying the experience, relax in Zabeel Park. With the shade of the trees the desert seems a world away.
Cocktails and sunset
In the evening make your way to Atmosphere bar, located in the Burj Khalifa. If you time it right, it is possible to see the sun set twice in one day. First on the 125th floor of the Burj Khalifa watch the sun dip into the jagged skyline, before being shunted up to floor 148, at speeds of 36km per hour in the world’s third fastest elevator for the second sunset of the day.
At the Burj Khalifa’s Atmosphere restaurant, sample the signature tasting menu with wine pairing. Indulge in seven carefully prepared dishes such as a refreshing amuse bouche of beetroot salad accompanied by a 2014 French wine from the Alsace region. Or alternatively, blow the minimum spend on a few cocktails.
From a bird’s eye view from above, the Dubai fountain show at the base of the Burj Khalifa appears as a mesmerizing series of kaleidoscopic patterns, as the water jets dance in time to music. After watching the fountains from the observation deck of the Burj Khalifa, enjoy a cocktail at Fai bar, part of the Palace downtown hotel, for an up close and personal fountain show experience.
Continue the night at urban hideaway Treehouse bar to drink mojitos on the plant filled outdoor terrace. If it wasn’t for the towering Burj Khalifa as a backdrop, and wafting aromas of mint and lemon shisha, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Europe. Opulent nightclub Billionaire Mansion, is downstairs should you wish to continue the night until the early hours.
Learn about the local culture:
Outlined against the horizon with its two minarets, Jumeirah Mosque is instantly recognisable.
The Jumeirah Mosque built in 1975 is open to the public as part of the ‘open hearts, open minds’ project. Every Sunday to Saturday at 10am, Muslim volunteers welcome visitors inside the Mosque, explaining aspects such as the five pillars. The tour costs 25aed per person. Dress respectfully, covering your knees, chest and upper arms. Traditional attire is available at the entrance.
Saturday afternoon at the Souks
For refreshments, make your way to the old heart of the city, Dubai Creek. Originally the cornerstone of Dubai’s economic activity, the Creek was integral to the traditional industries of pearl diving, fishing, and trade.
The Creek splits Dubai up into the districts of Deira and Bur Dubai. Start your journey on the Bur Dubai side, at the traditional Arabian tea house for a choice of over 100 selections of tea.
The nearby Dubai Museum gives a further insight into Dubai’s history, housing collections of photographs of Dubai before its became oil rich in 1966. Admission is 3 aed for adults and 1 aed for children.
A myriad of colored fabrics at the local textile souks make for fabulous shopping and photo opportunities. The wooden abra is the traditional method of transport across the Creek. For five dirhams ride across the waterway to the spice and gold souks, where gold prices are amongst the most competitive in the world.
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After shopping at the souks, head to Satwa for one of the cheapest and most delicious meals in Dubai at Ravi’s Pakistani restaurant, a local institution. Sit on the plastic chairs outside and enjoy watching the chaotic scenes unfold around you.
This corner of Dubai is home to a large proportion of South Asians, who make up the larges percentage of Dubai’s resident population, and is the best place to come for low cost services, whether that is getting a new battery in your watch or getting a suit tailor made.
Street hawkers lurk at every corner to sell you a fake Rolex or designer handbag that look suspiciously like the real thing. Order at the counter and eat your meal side by side with workers from all corners of the globe. Whether you order a vegetable biriyani , a dahl fry or fried brain curry, Ravi’s is unlikely to disappoint. Open 5am-2.30am.
Evening drive in the desert
You haven’t been to Dubai if you haven’t been out in the desert. With a four wheel drive, you can drive into the Arabian desert independently. However, for most visitors, the preferable option is to arrange a desert trip through a tour company.
Prepare for an exhilarating ride up and down rust colored sand dunes before entering a desert camp. Take time to walk around the orange sand dunes away from the groups. As darkness sets, whirling dervishes and belly dancers descend on the stage. Buffet food is included and shisha is available at an extra charge. A souvenir to pick up here is a pretty glass bottle filled with a pattern made up from the seven sands, one from each Emirate of the UAE.
Dubai nightlife offers something for everyone. If its a pub/bar you’re after get to Lock, Stock & Barrel and end the night at Rock Bottom. To party on the beach get to Barasti or Zero Gravity. For more of a nightclub experience head to White Dubai or Base.
Sunday morning. Time for coffee.
If like me you’re a coffee addict, Dubai has plenty of cafes and coffee shops to fulfill your caffeine needs. Dubai Design District, also known as D3 is an urban development showcasing and providing opportunities for Dubai’s flourishing local art scene. Co-working spaces encourage collaborations between local creatives.
Get breakfast at one of the trendy eateries before exploring the current art exhibitions. Craft cafe has acquired a solid reputation amongst local residents, albeit the hipster ones. From an Acai bowl to truffled scrambled eggs, the breakfast menu is healthy without compromising on taste. For the best coffee, head to The Espresso Lab, a homegrown concept by a local Emirati.
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Another popular area with the locals is City Walk with its outdoor European style streets. Here get your coffee at % Arabica. You can’t miss it, just look for a queue of locals.
Arabian Gulf.
Next stop is the beach. Sample some local cuisine for lunch at award winning seven sands restaurant by JBR beach. Select the ‘Emirati culinary experience’ menu at 249aed per person, for an indulgent feast. Start with a mezze. For desert, try camel milk ice cream and sticky date pudding rounded off with an Arabic coffee.
After lunch, sit back and enjoy the people watching opportunities by the beach. The warm, salty Arabian gulf waters are particularly soothing, and as warm as bath water depending on the time of year.
End your day by watching the sunset over the Arabian gulf.
Image may be NSFW.
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Where to stay:
With its ornate Indian influenced decor, the Taj hotel is a beautiful hotel. Select a room with a view of the Burj Khalifa at around 900AED per night.
For a more chilled, artsy option, try Rove downtown or the brand new Rove Marina.
Alternatively Air BnB it.
Other Dubai posts:
Where to get shisha with a view
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