Backpacking the Golan Heights solo..
From Jerusalem I set off to Tiberias via bus. Tiberias is a not so pretty Town by the “sea” of Galilee where Jesus walked on water and fed the 5000. I’ve no idea why it’s called a sea as it’s quite clearly a lake! Today Galilee is packed full of Israeli tourists coming for day trips and their holidays taking boat trips and swimming on the lake. I’ll be honest .. if you have an interest in staying by the lake then choose one of the more remote places- there’s camping and various kibbutz options, but a car is helpful if not essential to get to the more remote locations. For me born and bred a few hours from the stunning Lake District in England- this lake was nothing special to look at.
For me Tiberias was merely an overnight pitstop between Jerusalem and the Golan Heights. I hadn’t booked my stay- I turned up at the simple Tiberias hostel and checked in while I decided what to do next- travellers and locals are the best sources of up to date information. Although there wasn’t much to do in Tiberias itself, the Hostel had a great vibe with a rooftop bar- perfect for meeting other travellers, albeit some preachy ones coming on “Jesus trails” telling me I’d see the light one day. Hmm. If I didn’t “see the light” in Jerusalem I really don’t think the light is for me!
I debated where to stay in the Golan Heights and eventually opted for a hostel located in the village of Katzrin, an hour’s bus ride away from Tiberias located with bus access to many places within the Golan as well as some attractions itself. If I had a car I would have chosen a more remote location but unfortunately I was constrained by bus routes.
The Golan Heights is one of the most contentious and disputed pieces of land in the world. Seized by Israel from Syria in 1967, with Syria fighting in 1973 to unsuccessfully reclaim it, evidence remains dotted around the Golan of the conflict such as semi destroyed buildings and war bunkers. Even today it is an important piece of land in the region due to its height- observation over the neighbouring countries and therefore a point of defence. The land is fertile being built on volcanic soil- cattle farms and vineyards are plentiful and it’s also a key water source.
Within the Golan there are groups – the Druze people who refuse to accept it is part of Israel and state it is Syrian land. Tensions have been growing in recent weeks. Most of the conflict has remained the other side of the border or should I say ceasefire line in Syria but just a few weeks ago a Syrian plane was shot down as it entered Israeli airspace and according to the news seven IS fighters entered Israeli territory and were killed just a few days ago. Scary stuff..
The first day I arrived I did an hours horse riding in the village itself. It was okay – relaxing but basically just walking around a field with kids. Hmm. Not quite what I had in mind!
The next day I took the 59 bus up to the base of one of the famous peaks- Mount Bental. It was a half an hour climb which I took steadily accompanied by a Spanish man also staying at the Hostel. Up at the top we met two others from the Hostel who had cycled up- a Swiss, well after all they’re used to mountain climbing and a Dutch guy – again used to cycling.
We sat and had coffee at the cafe at the top of Mount Bental as “birthright” tour buses arrived. My cue to leave and I set off and left the guys as I wanted my alone time to walk to my next pit stop- one of the many wineries in the locality which was a 4km walk away. The walk wasn’t difficult but the heat was starting to make it hard. A lot of it was along roads with United Nations vans passing every so often- they have been patrolling the area since 1974 observing the ceasefire between Syria and Israel.
The scenery here isn’t anything special- the majority of Israel is pretty dull scenery to be honest. I was expecting the Golan Heights to be far more beautiful and dramatic. But it was basically a few shrub covered hills. The walk was fairly peaceful, punctuated by the occasional overhead military helicopter patrolling the border between Israel and Syria. However I felt safe, the only time of unease was passing a herd of cows – hey cows can be dangerous! They all just watched me in a spooky silence.
I eventually collapsed red faced and sweaty into the Pelter winery located in Ein Zivan kibbutz- located under 3km from the Syrian border. Pretty sure I heard a few explosions in the distance en route. Not surprising given what is going on in the Syrian side.
The Swiss and Dutch guy arrived at the winery as I emerged from the bathroom to freshen up (not sure what happened to the Spanish Guy mind) – perfect timing, they had been on a detour to visit a bombed out old Syrian hospital, and we were given a platter of various goats cheeses, and over the course of an hour with a variety of wine samples finished off with arak. The wine was very clean and easy to drink- yup that’s my expert opinion haha. You were given a canister in which to spit the wine out, we chose not to- why waste it?! Sitting drinking wine and munching on cheese I certainly didn’t feel I was a few km from a war zone. Israel is definitely a surreal country to visit. Not for its landscape or scenery, that is pretty tame and not so special. But for its history, religion and politics.
The bill came to 50 shekels – about £10, split between us. Not bad! I then had to hurry off as due to it being Friday and the start of Shabbat the last bus left at around 4pm from the kibbutz. The guys cycled back to the hostel- luckily the route back is mainly downhill.
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