After leaving Jerusalem I was able to reflect on my time spent in the city, and compose my travel highlights from a non religious backpackers perspective. I don’t like to say I’m atheist. I just don’t follow any organised religion, that’s not to say I don’t have my own beliefs or that I can’t appreciate aspects of religion.
Despite not visiting Jerusalem on a religious pilgrimage or on a birthright trip, like so many others, there is no doubt that it is a special and unique destination. In fact coming alone, without any sort of propaganda or underlying religious or political agenda I feel was the best way for me to see what the city stands for as I could see it through unblinkered eyes. The amount of History in this one place is mind blowing, and even more mind blowing is that it’s not just an old relic- it’s a living, emotive, powerful city and crucially important for the three biggest world religions today. Religions that in my view have a lot more similarities than differences.
Seeing people wailing at the Western Wall and crying at the Church of Sephulcre reminded me that for many Jerusalem is so much more than a place of the past. It is also a place of hope, a place of tomorrow and the unknown, where people come to pray for better things in this life and the next.
Jerusalem somehow feels both untouchable yet vulnerable. With the current conflict between Muslims and Jews. Palestine vs Zionism, the tension is constantly bubbling under the surface giving a nervy edge around the city- something Jerusalem is no stranger to having experienced so much conflict before.
It is an intense and exhausting city to visit, from the religious zealousness, the political tension and the wealth of History. Plus the tourist angle, which makes you question the authenticity of the city today. Along the streets next to places of supposed religious and historical importance are stalls selling tacky gifts. After all… much of Jerusalem is rebuilt and not original. And a lot of the significant sites are highly contested.
Around every corner is a church of significance or tomb, somebody wanting to talk to you and sell you something whether it’s their religious view or a token souvenir. For me four nights was enough. With restricted opening hours for many sites due to Shabbat I spent four nights in Jerusalem yet barely scraped the surface. But I also felt drained from my time here and ready to move on leaving with memories of a city I can truly say is incomparable to any other.
Here are my Jerusalem travel highlights in no particular order…
Highlights of Jerusalem…
1. Getting a perspective from the Ramparts Walk. For a small fee you get a two day pass giving you access to walking the walls of the old city granting you views over the different quarters of the city.
2. Experiencing Shabbat. Shabbat is the time between sunset on Friday and sunset on Saturday and the city basically shuts down- local buses don’t run, shops and restaurants are closed. Abraham Hostel organised a Shabbat dinner on Friday night for the fee of 50 shekels which gave an opportunity for the guests to interact. I recommend walking around the old city on Friday before sundown.
3. Walking up to the Mount of Olives. This location features in the Bible as the place Jesus cried over Jerusalem. Today it offers incredible views and you can watch the sun set over the old city from here. Today it is also home to many Jewish graves- it is thought that these people will be the first to be resurrected if buried here.
4. Walking the Dolorosa. Said to be the route Jesus walked with the cross to his death. There are 14 points of importance along the walk culminating at the Church of Sephulcre built on the site where Jesus was prepared for burial and then crucified at Golgotha- the place of the skull. Whether it is the exact route or not I don’t think we can be certain, but it gives an opportunity to stop and think (best to go around sunset – after the shops have closed their stalls for the day).
5. Getting lost within the old city. I enjoyed just wandering the old streets in the old city ending up at various churches and gates.
6. Putting a note in the Western Wall. People from all over the world come to the Western Wall in the belief they are the closest they can be to God. The sight of Orthodox Jews reading from the Torah and putting prayers into the cracks of the wall was a memorable moment.
Other highlights were unplanned. For example coming out of the old city, following the sound of live music and entering a daytime live concert filled with the youth of Jerusalem drinking and dancing …
Or sitting at a nice bar having a cocktail and watching the World go by…or sitting on a random bench and people watching, seeing so many Orthodox Jews is a sight to behold…the men with their long ringlets because they are not allowed to cut their side burns, and black top hats and coats even in the summer heat. The women with their dowdy dresses and skirts, and hair covered- some even wear wigs so as not to reveal their real hair.
Other places of recommendation in Jerusalem..
1. Yad Veshem- the holocaust memorial museum. Due to time and the fact I have visited Auschwitz I didn’t visit this museum. It is recommended to spend at least two hours here and it’s around a half an hour journey from the centre by light rail followed by a walk. Check opening times before going. Said to be an incredibly moving experience.
2. The Machane Yehuda Market. Where the hipsters and locals mingle. I had a walk through this and personally just found it crowded and over-bearing. Apparently there are some excellent restaurants and bars here if you know where to go and don’t mind crowds.
3. The Ultra Orthodox neighbourhood- Mea Sherim. I heard that this was an interesting place to visit after I had left. Most of Jerusalem seemed ultra orthodox to me!
4. Israel Museum. Personally I’m not a huge museum fan but I have heard that this museum is extremely interesting with a range of important religious artefacts.
5. The Dome of the Rock Mosque. Unfortunately due to restrictions on visiting times I wasn’t able to get up close. Only Muslims can enter the Mosque itself. Check opening times.
Jerusalem Travel Tips:
Budget Accommodation:
I stayed at Abraham’s hostel, one of the most famous in the country. Located near the light rail at Davidka Square and a 15 minute walk from the old city. Book here
Another good option where I stayed for one night is the Old Post Hostel which is located just five minutes from the old city and is again very near the light rail. Book here
Getting around:
The light rail system is regular and efficient (although doesn’t operate during Shabbat). It runs between the central bus station and the old city and costs around 6 shekels for each journey- each station has a machine from which to purchase tickets.
Where to eat:
Find the best hummus in the Arabic quarter of the old city.
Along the Main Street leading to the Old city are plenty of eateries serving Thai, falafel and more. Get your coffee fix for 5 shekels at cofix.
Machane Yehuda Market is the up and coming hipster part of town where you can get a drink or a bite to eat.
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